Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Gardens

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered train pulls into a spray-painted stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.

This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've noticed individuals concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He's organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout the city. It is sufficiently underground to have an official name yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Vineyards Across the Globe

So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which features better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of the French capital's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards assist urban areas stay greener and ecologically varied. They protect land from construction by establishing permanent, productive farming plots inside urban environments," says the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the earth the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, community, landscape and heritage of a city," adds the spokesperson.

Mystery Polish Variety

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Activities Throughout Bristol

Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the car windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."

Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's reviving an traditional method of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the skins into the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Conditions and Creative Approaches

A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to install a fence on

John Allen
John Allen

Elara is an avid hiker and outdoor enthusiast who shares her experiences and tips to help others explore the wilderness safely.

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