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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.